Ultimate Mexico City Travel Guide

I often hear travellers say that Mexico City is their favorite city. Being born nearby, it holds many memories for me, particularly of the airport! Mexico City has a welcoming soul and features colorful chalky lapis blue and bright orange buildings and palaces. It is an endless sprawl of life home to a population of 22 million people. The city offers some of the best culinary experiences on the planet and welcomes visitors with open arms. Those who haven't been often misunderstand it and those who know it love it.

At 2,240 meters above sea level, CDMX is one of the highest cities in the world. . The metropolis has grown massively in the past few years and as the oldest city in the Americas, it is rich with history from the indigenous groups that established it. Following the invasion of the Spanish, it also saw some French and Austrian influence, today Mexico ranks as the twelfth-largest economy globally by nominal GDP. I’ve created this comprehensive Mexico City Travel Guide to help you plan your trip and navigate any potential challenges.

Fun fact: Mexico City is built on a lakebed and is sinking approximately thirty to forty centimeters each year.

Firstly, a little bit of history...

The legend goes that the God of Sun and War (Huitzilopochtli) visited a Mexica (Aztec/ Tenochca) leader in a dream and told him that when they saw an eagle on top of a cactus with a snake in its beak, this would be where they would settle. The prophecy was fulfilled (the eagle and snake are displayed on the flag) and on Lake Texcoco, the capital of the Aztec empire Tenochtitlan was formed in 1325. The initial city was previously a series of lakes with artificial islands created by the Aztecs for agricultural purposes called chinampas. At its height, it was the largest city in the pre-Columbian Americas with an estimated population between 200,000 and 400,000 inhabitants.

In 1519, Hernando Cortes set foot on Mexico and took over Tenochtitlan, destroying it and draining the lake. Aztec temples were replaced with catholic churches and Spanish names replaced the Nahuatl names (indigenous language). It then became the center of colonial activity for the Spaniards in the Americas as the capital of the "New Spain" A lot of mansions and palaces were built, broad streets covered the canals and it became known as the "city of palaces". The city experienced a lot of flooding due to the destruction of the canals and the city was submerged for five years in 1629!

The Mexican War of Independence began in 1810 and it wasn't until 27 September 1821 that Mexico won its independence. Following the war, the country was financially strained, so they rented areas of land in Texas (which belonged to them) to the Americans to boost the economy. However, the Americans began acting as if they owned the land and brought in slaves, which was illegal in Mexico. The Mexican government sent in the military, leading to the Battle of the Alamo in 1836. Although the American settlers lost initially, a subsequent influx of settlers won another fight, and Texas was declared the new country of the "Republic of Texas." Mexico acknowledged the loss but disputed the boundaries of Texas. The Mexican-American War followed and Americans occupied the area for a year between 1847 and 1848. The American invasion was first resisted by The Saint Patrick's Battalion (which is why the Mexicans love the Irish). Ultimately, the USA won and they paid Mexico $15 million for California and Mexico gave up the disputed area which is now modern-day Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, most of Arizona and Colorado, and parts of Oklahoma, Kansas, and Wyoming (Yes, Mexico lost a lot of land, which was taken from them. I can explain this in more depth if you’re interested).

Mexico had lost a great part of their territory to the Americans which caused political tension in the country. Between 1857 and 1861 there was La Guerra de Reforma (the Reform War) which was a violent civil war between the liberals (who wanted a separation from the state and catholic church) and the conservatives (who wanted to align with the Spanish history) due to differing beliefs on how the country should be ruled. The liberal leader Benito Juarez won the war and then decided that he wasn't going to pay any of the country's foreign debt for two years. Then Britain, France, and Spain who were owed money (which is a bit rich as Spain stole billions in gold and silver) came up with a plan to get their money, and a joint intervention into Mexico was signed in 1861.

At the time, Napoleon III was in control of France and had an ulterior motive to expand his empire (Britain and Spain were in the dark about this). Initially, they were all going to take over Veracruz solely as a bargaining chip but Britain and Spain clocked on that France had a different plan, and withdrew. The French who had the support of the conservatives took over three cities as they continued to push onto Mexico City but they got held up at Puebla in 1862 vastly outnumbered the Mexicans but still lost. The battle in Puebla is still celebrated today on May 5th (more so in the States). It was a big win for Mexico.

However, with more troops sent in the French secured Mexico City in 1863 and established a monarchy. Napoleon invited the Hungarian archduke Maximillian to become the new emperor of Mexico. America was upset that Europe was their new neighbor but they had their civil war going on so they didn't want to get involved. The conservatives got annoyed that Maximillian was too liberal and the French public didn't want to be involved in faraway lands. In the end, the US Civil War wrapped up and America began providing secret aid to the liberals, allowing them to fight against the French, and they left in 1866. Maximillian seemed like a good guy who wished the best for the country with his final words being "Long live independence and long live Mexico" before he was executed.

Fast forward to 1910-1920, the country experienced La Revolucion which culminated as the end of a 30-year dictatorship and the introduction of a constitutional republic. In the 1900s, the city began to expand horizontally as well as vertically and the 1950s saw the construction of the Ciudad Universitaria, (University, which is now a UNESCO site) built by the top architects of the time leading to recognition of the city as a center for modern architecture. Mexico City then hosted the Olympic Games in 1968. Later on, between 1960 and 1980 the population more than doubled with people moving to the city in the hope of work.

As of June 2024, Mexico has elected its first female president, Claudia Sheinbaum. It will be interesting to see how her administration unfolds in a country known for its entrenched machismo culture. A significant portion of the population views the government as corrupt and this has been the most violent campaign the country has ever seen with more than 30 political candidates for the presidency killed. During the pandemic, there was an influx of digital nomads and tourists who moved to or visited the city as the Country remained open. More and more Americans are heading south of the border (you don't hear about that much) in search of a more affordable and higher quality of life, and right now, Mexico City is especially in vogue.

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As you can see from the brief history, Mexico City has seen events that changed the landscape of the country and has had many influences that remain present in the city today.

Safety

While some parts of Mexico City are not recommended for tourists, the main tourist areas with museums and sights are safe and conveniently located near each other in central districts. These areas include Cuauhtémoc (the historic centre), Benito Juárez, and Coyoacán. I recommend being careful with your valuables: avoid walking with your phone in hand, and don't carry large amounts of money. Please don't come to Mexico to buy illicit substances; this puts you in direct contact with criminals and increases your risk of harm. Additionally, buying drugs contributes to the country's problems. Enjoy Mexico for the positive experiences it offers. Be wary of pickpockets on the streets, especially on the metro. Keep a hand on your valuables or ensure they are difficult to access. Lastly, avoid walking around at night time and opt for an Uber to get you from place to place at night.

When in Mexico I suggest the following:

History Museums & Sights

Mexico City has the world's second-highest number of museums (after London), with about 200 to explore. Here are some of the best ones:

• Anthropological museum: learn about the indigenous cultures throughout Mexico from the Aztecs and Maya. Known for its impressive size you could easily spend the whole day here. If you don't speak Spanish a tour guide is recommended so you can get a good understanding of the artifacts, entry is MX$95 which is like £5. Tickets can be bought here or at the door.

• Templo Mayor: The Spanish destroyed the temples of Tenochtitlan but you can see what's left and of course, visit another museum with some artifacts. In 1987 electricity workers found an 8-tonne carving of an Aztec goddess in the area so they decided to demolish the colonial buildings and excavate the Templo Mayor! The temple is said to be the exact spot where the Aztecs saw the eagle on the cactus so for the Aztecs this was the center of the universe. Entry is also MX$95.
  

• Palacio Nacional: Diego Riveras' most famous murals are here, illustrating the arrival of Quetzalcóatl (the Aztec serpent god) to the post-revolutionary period. However,  as this is a government building (offices to the president and the Federal Treasury) you need a ticket (it's free but you can't go in alone) and they don't always let people in. Above the door the place you can see the Campana de Dolores (Dolores's Bell) which was the bell that rang in the town of Dolores Hidalgo at the start of the War of Independence. From the balcony underneath the president gives the grito of independence "Viva México!" on September 15th to celebrate the anniversary of independence. This is also the same spot where the Aztec emperor Moctezuma II built his palace. To get a ticket you go across the street to Museo de la Secretaría de Hacienda, you have to present your ID and they will give you a timeslot on a tour in either English or Spanish.

• Catedral Metropolitana: an iconic cathedral whose construction began in 1573, and continued to be built throughout the colonial period demonstrating an array of architectural styles. The Spanish ordered the cathedral to be built on top of Templo Mayor and used the Aztec temple stones for its construction. You are allowed to visit for free but not during mass. It took 250 years to build this impressive Cathedral.

• Zócalo: this is one of the world's largest city squares and is the ancient heart of the city where the rest grew from. The Mexican flag is raised at 8 am and lowered at 6 pm each day by soldiers. You can also find dancers dressed as Aztecs performing ceremonial dances.

• Palacio Postal: it's worth seeing this beautiful golden post office.

• Plaza Garibaldi: in the late afternoon/evening mariachi bands congregate here and you can pay them to play a song. It's not a pleasant place at night so be careful (I'd suggest not going past 7 pm). You can also see the mariachi perform at plenty of restaurants.

• Torre Latinoamericana: when this was constructed in 1956 it was Latin America's tallest building. This is impressive considering Mexico City is built on a lakebed even more impressive is that it has remained stable throughout several major earthquakes. Admission is free if you go to the bar on the 41st floor or you can pay to go to the 44th-floor observation deck. I wouldnt recommend the restaurant, it's got good views but the food is nothing special.

• El Angel: is a large monument signifying independence. Inside are the remains of Miguel Hidalgo and other revolutionaries who initiated the fight for independence.

• The Basílica of Guadalupe: five stunning churches integral to Meixco's history where you'll see devotees of the Virgin of Guadalupe, Mary mother of Jesus who appeared in various aparations to some Mexican peasants during the Spanish rule. Entry is free, if you like religious sites, then this one is for you.

• Casa de los Azulejos: The House of Tiles is an 18th-century baroque palace it is now the flagship Sanborns restaurant, you can go in just to see it but I've heard mixed reviews about the restaurant.

• Ciudad Universitaria, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Mexico City, is home to the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM). The area is far away form the other tourist sites so I would also recommend to go if you've done everything else or are interested in seeing some more murals by Mexican artists. Key attractions include the Central Library, with a famous mural by Juan O'Gorman, and the Olympic Stadium, notable for Diego Rivera's last mural. You can explore the Sculpture Space, an outdoor art installation, the University Museum of Contemporary Art (MUAC), which showcases contemporary art, and the Botanical Garden, which features native plants and ecological exhibits. The campus is celebrated for its architectural and cultural significance

Art Museums

• Museo de Arte Popular (Popular art museum): this museum is focused on handcrafts and folklore art and has free entry on Sundays! MX$60

• Museo Mural Diego Rivera: His murals beautifully capture facets of Mexican history. The museum is small, so it is worth paying for a guide there to bring the art to life and make the most of your time. Entry is MX$45 and the cost of a guide won't be expensive.

• Frida Kahlo Museum (The Blue House): this is where the famous Mexican artist grew up and as a popular place, you have to book in advance. I loved it but if you aren't particularly interested in her story it may not be for you. I suggest watching the film "Frida" with Salma Hayek to get an understanding of Kahlo's life and her turbulent relationship with Diego Rivera (yup the famous muralist, who was also her art teacher). Entry to the house is $320.00 and tickets can be bought here. Be aware that the museum is shut on Mondays. If you just want to see some of her artwork you can find it at the Museo Dolores Olmedo (currently closed and no word when it will open) or the Modern Art Museum (you can find "The Two Frida's" here).
  

• Museo National de Arte: an impressive building and a collection showing every school of Mexican art until the start of the 20th century. It is free to visit on Sundays.

• Museo Soumaya: a vast collection of Mexican and international artworks and artifacts. Entry is free! The building itself is unique and impressive. Below are some of my favorite pieces there.

• Palacio de Bellas Artes:  this iconic building, conceptualized by an Italian architect, features more murals by Rivera, including the famous "Man at the Crossroads," which was originally commissioned for New York's Rockefeller Center but destroyed for its anti-capitalist representations. Rivera repainted it in 1934. The palace also features temporary art exhibitions. It costs $90 to enter and an additional $60 to visit the architecture museum on the fourth floor.

• Jumex: right next to the Soumaya, this museum showcases contemporary art and is a bit more wacky. It is much smaller with only two floors. and entry is also free here.

Lucha Libre or Mexican wrestling, you know the one with the colourful masks? I'd say this is more of an evening activity as there is drinking. There are various places where you can watch it including Arena México (the most well known, but dogy at night time leave straight after the match if you go here, you can buy tickets on the door in advance). You can also go to Arena Coliseo and Arena Naucalpan (less commercial but further out from the city) Ultimately, they are all quite similar but have different schedules so check when a match is on and what's closest to you. For extra peace of mind book it as an Airbnb Experience to have someone to go with who can explain the history. You can find the schedule and book tickets here, it's better to order beforehand to ensure good seats ringside! Don't take large cameras or backpacks because they aren't allowed inside.

Xochimilco

One of my favorite things in the city is spending a morning or afternoon on the UNESCO World Heritage canals of Mexico City. You can go down to the water and on the day a "trajinero" will take you out on the colorful boats called "trajineras" which are pushed by a long pole (kinda like a pimped-out larger punt that you find in Cambridge or Oxford). You'll pass the chinampas (remember those artificial islands) which the Aztects built. The best way to experience the boats is by getting a group together and spending an hour or two on the water. On the water, you will pass my other boats selling food and drinks, try a michelada ( a beer with chili and lime and sometimes other ingredients like clamato), and bring some extra cash so that the mariachi passing by on boats can give you a song.

Most people stay on the canal but you can also visit Isla de las Muñecas (Island of the Dolls) an Island with weathered toy dolls and a sad story about them being there. If you want to check it out you'll have to agree with your boat driver first. You can also make a stop at ajoloterias, which is a breeding location for the axolotl. The axolotl is an amphibian that looks like it's smiling and is native to Xochimilco canals. However, it is endangered due to the pollution of water and a guide even told me it was because people would stick them in tacos and eat them! It gets busy at the weekend as lots of locals go too, it's not just for tourists! It's very busy on a Sunday so to experience some of the buzz I'd suggest going on a Saturday rather than a weekday.

There are various embankments (you can see a list here) where you can get the boats from, there will be lots of touts so ignore them (or say no gracias) until you get to the embankments. Keep in mind that THE BOATS are $500 per hour, don't pay that per person. The prize is fixed but some people will still try their luck at overcharging. You can even try bargaining if you are confident enough. You can get an Uber there or take the Metro, you'll want the Xochimilco Light Rail Station and from there you can walk to an embankment. I went to Embarcedero Las Flores Nativas.

Chapultepec Park is a sprawling 1,695-acre (686-hectare) urban oasis in the heart of Mexico City. As you stroll through the park, you'll encounter sculptures, fountains, and nine museums, the most renowned being the Anthropological Museum. The park also boasts the Chapultepec Park Botanical Garden and the historic Chapultepec Castle, once home to Emperor Maximilian of Habsburg. Additionally, you'll find the Altar a la Patria, a monument honoring six teenagers who died during the 1847 American invasion. Explore the three man-made lakes, where you can rent pedalos or canoe boats. It is also believed, though not proven, that the Baths of Moctezuma are within the park.

Teotihuacán

Although this is an hour away from the city, for me this is a must-see it is renowned for its pyramids of the sun and the moon, it predates the Aztec and Mayan civilizations. Between the 1st and 7th centuries A.D., the settlement grew into one of the largest ancient cities in the Americas, with a population of at least 25,000 inhabitants. is estimated to have been established in 100 BCE. You can take the metro to the northern bus station and then take a bus, get an Uber there (it won't cost an arm and a leg but you could easily find yourself in traffic for hours) or you can go via a tour. I would recommend going by yourself and then paying for a tour guide there. They will bring the history to life and explain the importance of each pyramid and what they were used for. Entrance costs $80.

Neighborhoods

Polanco is a wealthy neighborhood where you will find luxury shopping, high-end dining, and swanky bars in avenues lined with trees and blossoming jacarandas and hibiscus. Presidente Masaryk Avenue is where tyou will find all the boutiques and designer shops.

Coyoacán is a charming and historic neighborhood in Mexico City known for its colonial architecture, vibrant arts scene, and bohemian atmosphere. The area features cobblestone streets, colorful houses, and lush plazas like Jardín Centenario and Jardín Hidalgo. There are plently of cafés, markets, and artisan shops.

Roma and Condesa are two of Mexico City's most vibrant neighborhoods, each with its unique charm and appeal. Roma is known for its bohemian atmosphere, diverse architecture, and artistic vibe, with numerous art galleries, trendy cafes, and lively parks like Parque México and Parque España. It's a haven for creatives and young professionals (and my favourite place to stay). Adjacent to Roma, Condesa offers a more upscale, cosmopolitan experience with its art deco buildings, chic restaurants, and boutique shops.

I hope wherever you end up exoloring in Mexico City, that you enjoy it, make great memories and come away with a new idea of Mexico.